LANGZHONG

Why Langzhong? I was told only 220km north east of Chengdu, Langzhong merited a stopover before the emerging local tourism industry would promote an onrush of visitors… and before the inevitable invasion of the ever expanding frontiers of modernity…

I was also told when in town I should check out The Du Family Inn. I checked it out and checked-in, so gracious were (owner / manager?) Paul, and his staff of pretty ladies. The Inn, located in the heart of the old town is the sort of place where even the key-holes conjure some mysterious attraction.

In this ancient part of town with flagstone narrow alleys and sloping tiled roofs is easy to relax. Lacking 4-wheel vehicles, the streets are clean and quiet; actually if you want to go there, take small luggage as the only way to get to-and-from the Inn besides using your own leg-power is by bicycle rickshaw.

On an exploratory walk I encountered a peculiar old lady, she scanned me up and down, she playfully placed her right hand on her own chest and then on mine loudly repeating, like a mantra, FRIENDS… FRIENDS… - Taking my hand she took me through a series of narrow passages into her home.

I was motioned to sit next to an older smiling man who I assumed was her husband. The room was long and narrow resembling a wide corridor with sofas and chairs, exquisite silk embroidery paintings covered the entire walls and the man was watching pre-Olympic sports on a wide-screen TV.

After a few minutes squeezing my hand, she led me towards the river bank, pointed to the ferry-boat approaching the jetty, and uttering the mantra - FRIENDS… FRIENDS - she waved goodbye and disappeared.

I took the ferry across the Jailing River. I hiked up a hill’s tortuous trail towards a landscape of temples and shrines. As I approached a wide open gate, I came upon a couple of snarling dogs. I am not a dog-friendly person and as I don’t expect them to be friendly with me, I turned back and walked across the bridge. I suspect I missed something there…

My room at the Du Family Inn

Back at the Du Family Inn I had an early dinner of rice, green leafy vegetables that could be described as Chinese spinach, a heap of sliced zăngféi niúròu, a local preserved beef I ate nowhere else, and some delicious vinegary pickles.

Indeed Langzhong may be the vinegar capital of China. Everything smells of vinegar, local soft drinks are made with vinegar, vinegar recipes are jealously guarded and I’ve heard there are even public vinegar-bathhouses…

At night Langzhong literally lit up, Shoe shops, dress shops, jeweler’s shops, silk shops and noodle houses busy until late gave the city an atmosphere of holiday, a particular feeling of well been and safety. For what turned out to be my last night in Langzhong I was taken on a two-minute motorcycle ride to a Shadow Puppet performance, and a stroll along the river bank…